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Choosing Your Diamond Cut

The cut of a diamond determines its brilliance. There is no single measurement of a diamond that defines its cut, but rather a collection of measurements and observations that determine the relationship between a diamond's light performance, dimensions and finish. Most gemologists consider cut the most important diamond characteristic because even if a diamond has perfect color and clarity, a diamond with a poor cut will have dulled brilliance. '

The width and depth can have an effect on how light travels within the diamond, and how it exits in the form of brilliance.

Cut Determines Brilliance

Determining a diamond's cut grade, however, goes beyond simple measurements of width and depth. Using an optical measuring device, a three-dimensional model is created to determine the diamond's proportions and angles. The interrelations between these various dimensions will greatly affect how light reacts once it enters and how it behaves once it exits; by using sophisticated computer modeling, it is possible to trace light behavior and measure its levels of brightness, fire and scintillation - the face-up appearance.

What Color Grade is Best?

• For the purist, look for a colorless diamond with a grade of D-F and a fluorescence rating of faint, inert, none, or negligible.

• For an excellent value in a diamond with no noticeable color to the unaided eye, look for a near-colorless grade of G-I, and a fluorescence grade of medium or strong blue.

• Or, if you'd rather not compromise on color but would like to stay on budget, choose a diamond with a good cut, SI1–SI2 clarity, and consider going with a strong fluorescence. It will still be beautiful to the unaided eye and you may prefer the unique effect of a strong fluorescence.

The table below compares the prices of diamonds with the same clarity grade (VS1) and carat weight, but varying color grades.

Colorless D           E            F Near-Colorless G           H           I           J Ideal   $8,000 $7,600 $7,200   $6,800 $6,000 $5,200 $4,300 Very Good   $7,500 $7,200 $6,900   $6,200 $5,600 $4,700 $4,200 Good   $7,200 $6,800 $6,700   $6,000 $5,200 $4,600 $4,000 Fair   $7,000 $6,700 $6,600   $5,200 $4,700 $4,200 $3,700

~ photo courtesy of Tonesha Housen                                                                               Diamond Education courtesy of  Blue Nile

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